ONE FISH, TWO FISH, GOOD FISH, TRUE FISH
Raymonds Dinner – SATURDAY, MAY 16, 2015
Chef Jeremy Charles, whom the New York Times calls “a leader in the growing movement to celebrate the cuisine of the North,” opened his kitchen at Raymonds to our guest chefs from North America and Scandinavia, for a spectacular, multi-course dining event: One Fish, Two Fish, Good Fish, True Fish.
Frida Ronge, of vRÅ, Gothenburg, Sweden; Jamie Malone, of Brut, Minneapolis, USA; Magnus Ek, of Oaxen, Krog & Slip, Stockholm, Sweden; Ned Bell, of Four Seasons Vancouver, British Columbia; and Jeremy Charles, Celeste Mah and Sarah Villamere of Raymonds, St John’s collaborated on the seven-course tasting menu, featuring regional sustainable seafood.
By showcasing such ingredients as: sea urchin, diver scallops, snow crab, periwinkle and scallop roe in creative ways—as well as sharing their passion for these ingredients in brief presentations to diners—the chefs made a powerful case for shifting our focus from standard fish choices to more sustainable yet equally delicious alternatives.
“Hosting this gang was a real treat,” says Jeremy Charles. “It was educational for me and my cooks to see how all these different chefs from different parts of the world deal with the beautiful products we have here—everyone had a new and unique take on everything.”
Here, Jeremy’s guests describe their dishes:
“I used 3 types of oysters: black pearl, deep fried with an emulsion, horseradish, dill and lemon; Treys, served raw, with pickled shalots, ponzu and cucumber; and Sensemone, poached in mirin, sake and soy sauce. I chose to use oyster because it’s a sustainable ingredient all over the world... and I just love oysters!”
“My dish was roasted Sustainable Blue trout from a land-based farm in Nova Scotia. I served it with parsnips, celeriac, partridgeberry and a vanilla beurre noir. I decided to serve land-raised farm fish as a way of speaking about protecting some wild species, by serving responsibly farmed fish. Sustainable Blue is a great farm, doing it the right way.”
“The elements of my dish included: raw scallops, cattails, charred ramp leaves, and whey. The raw scallops were in a live tank behind the restaurant, and the quality was incredible. They remained live until about an hour before service. They were incredibly rich and sweet, and I thought they paired well with a sour sauce made of whey and a little pork stock.”
“I chose the cod because it’s a fish that is so strongly connected with Newfoundland for me. I also wanted to use wild ingredients, but at the time of year when we were there, not so much had started to grow, so I used spruce, which is something you can pick all year around and something that I normally use a lot in my kitchen. I chose to use scallop roe, because it was a leftover that nobody else was planning to use.”
(Photos: Rick O'Brien)